Thinking about moving your credit-card balances to a 0% intro APR card? This calculator
compares keeping your current cards against one balance transfer — at the
same monthly payment — and counts the parts people forget: the transfer fee, the length of
the 0% window, and the revert APR on anything left when it ends. So you can
see whether a transfer really saves money, and whether you can clear it in time. Everything runs in your
browser; we never see or store your numbers.
The credit cards you'd transfer
Enter each balance, its current interest rate (APR), and its minimum monthly payment. Leave rows blank if you have fewer. Nothing you type leaves your browser.
Card (optional)BalanceAPR %Min. payment
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The balance transfer offer
Leave the monthly payment blank to use the total of your current minimums. Comparing both paths at the same monthly amount is the only fair way to see whether a transfer really costs less — and whether you can clear the balance before the 0% window ends.
Your current blended rate Transfer offer
Keep your current cards
Paid off in
Total interest
Balance transfer
Paid off in
Fee + interest
Illustrative estimate only — not financial advice or a card offer. Both
paths are compared at the same monthly payment, with fixed balances and rates and no new charges. The
transfer fee is added to the balance, the intro rate applies only during the intro window, and anything
left when it ends accrues at the post-intro APR. Approval and the actual fee, intro length and revert
rate depend on the issuer and your credit, so treat these as figures to confirm, not a sure thing. A
balance transfer does not reduce what you owe; it only changes the rate and the schedule.
How the comparison works
A balance transfer is just a way of carrying the same debt at a different rate. It saves money only
when the interest you avoid during the 0% intro window is worth more than the
transfer fee (typically 3–5% of the balance, added to what you owe). The whole game is
timing: if you clear the balance before the window closes, you pay essentially just the fee; if you don't,
the leftover balance reverts to the card's regular APR — often as high as the cards you came from.
This tool computes your current blended rate (the balance-weighted average APR across
the cards you'd transfer), then runs both paths at the same monthly payment so the comparison is fair: a
lower minimum always looks "cheaper" month to month, but stretches the debt. It checks whether you finish
inside the 0% window — and if not, it applies the revert APR to whatever is left, so the result reflects
what a transfer would really cost.
When a transfer helps — and when it doesn't
A balance transfer tends to help when you have good-to-excellent credit, a balance you can realistically
pay off (or nearly off) before the intro period ends, and a fee smaller than the interest you'd otherwise
pay — and when you stop charging on the cleared cards. It tends not to help when the balance is
too large to clear in the window (so most of it reverts to a high APR), when the fee is large relative to
a short window, or when your current rate is already low.
If the tool shows a transfer saving little or nothing, don't force it. A fixed-rate
consolidation loan can be more predictable because it
has no revert cliff, a nonprofit debt management plan can
often reduce interest without a new account, and for unsecured balances you truly can't repay,
debt settlement may be an option — though it is not guaranteed, can
lower your credit score, and a forgiven balance over $600 may be reported on a 1099-C as taxable income. We
explain each route plainly before you choose.
Frequently asked questions
Does a balance transfer reduce what I owe?
No. A balance transfer moves your existing balances to a new card — usually at 0% for an intro window — but you still owe the full principal, plus a transfer fee (commonly 3–5%) added to the balance. It saves money only when you pay enough of it down during the 0% window that the avoided interest beats the fee. If a big balance is left when the intro period ends, it starts accruing at the card's regular APR, which is why this calculator checks whether you can actually clear it in time.
When is a balance transfer worth it?
When you have good-to-excellent credit (needed to qualify), the balance is small enough that you can realistically pay most or all of it off before the 0% window closes, and the transfer fee is lower than the interest you'd otherwise pay. It works best as a payoff accelerator, not a way to lower a payment you can't afford — and only if you stop charging on the cards you clear.
What if I can't pay it off before the 0% period ends?
Then much of the benefit disappears: the leftover balance reverts to the card's regular APR (often as high as the cards you transferred from), and you've still paid the transfer fee on top. If you can't clear it in the window, a fixed-rate consolidation loan can be more predictable because it has no revert cliff. For unsecured balances you genuinely can't repay on any schedule, a nonprofit debt management plan or debt settlement may be worth comparing — settlement is not guaranteed, can hurt your credit, and a forgiven balance over $600 can be taxable.
Will applying for a balance transfer card hurt my credit?
Applying triggers a hard inquiry, which can dip your score a few points temporarily. Opening a new card also lowers your average account age but can lower your overall credit utilization, which often helps. The bigger risk is behavioral: if you treat the freed-up limit on the old cards as new spending room, you can end up deeper in debt than when you started.
Can't clear it in the 0% window? Compare fixed-rate loans
If a balance transfer won't be paid off before the intro rate ends, a fixed-rate consolidation loan avoids the revert cliff with one steady payment — pre-qualify and compare offers with a soft check that won't affect your credit, free, on the marketplace's own site.
Loan marketplace — personal/consolidation loans & student-loan refi, free to you